Eating and drinking

Well then, eating and drinking. In Spain that can of course be done in a great many places, and in a great many different ways. In the Jalón valley too there is something for every budget and every mood; there are more than enough bars & restaurants. But tastes will always differ, and circumstances such as the time of year, the mood of the staff and that of your fellow diners make a difference too, of course. That makes it hard to give tips that are useful for everyone.

Below we give an overview of the places we have (mostly) been to ourselves, and which for one reason or another we think worth mentioning. But please do not see it as a complete list — go and discover for yourself! The lovely thing about this region is that in a great many places you still come across the authentic Spain. As long as you are not right on the coast, most eating places cater for Spaniards and foreigners alike. It helps that many a Spaniard comes here as a tourist, and many a foreigner as a resident (often speaking a fair bit of Spanish too).

Alcalalí (within walking distance)

• Bar Porche – bar and simple restaurant with tapas and platos combinados, very convivial. Everyone comes together here: locals, foreign residents, workmen and tourists. The tables are often out on the church square; the church is only used on Sundays anyway.
• Bar Toni – of the places on the square this is the most bar and the least restaurant. But on occasion Toni also lays his tables on the square, for instance in summer when there is live music at weekends. Otherwise there are always some hot and cold tapas to be had.
• Bar Torre – A nice, convivial little bar-restaurant with tables outside as well, next to the church. Of the three bars this is the most restaurant. But at the same time still a convivial café. We are very glad that after a while without an owner it is finally open again. The old atmosphere of a ‘convivial village café where you can eat very well’ is completely back. Absolutely recommended. It can be handy to reserve a table in advance, just to be sure.
• No Nombre – Nearby, usually daytime only. Salad, bocadillos, tapas and drinks. You can sit outside, half-inside or completely inside.
• Ses Feixes – Strikingly situated, on the other side of the village on the road to Jalón, with a sizeable garden where you can have a lovely lunch or dinner outside, or just a drink with perhaps some patatas bravas to stave off hunger during the day. The dishes are a bit more luxurious, with a more luxurious price level to match. But very relaxed, and much more Spanish than the above.
• Musette Café – coffee stop at the crossroads, with home-made cake. Besides Miguel Indurain it can by now count Tadej Pogacar and all sorts of professional teams among its clientele. On this coffee the latter went straight on to take the KOM on the Col de Rates (including the steep path up to the observatory).
• Cha Cha – Nicely situated at the crossroads, but personally I am not warmed by the fact that they advertise air conditioning, and in Dutch. A simple menu aimed entirely at foreign residents and tourists: hamburgers, chicken satay and kibbeling. We have not been there ourselves, so I cannot say anything about the quality, but given the low price you should not expect fresh produce here.
• Besides the above, Alcalalí has more restaurants offering three-course menus in the ‘a lot for a little’ vein. The price depends on the main course, but is usually between 15 and 25 euros, including a glass of beer or a carafe of wine. So it is never too expensive, and the main course is often local and fresh. But at that price do not count on the starters, side dishes and desserts always being fresh too.

Jalón

• Café la Palmera – For the real coffee or tea lover this is the place to be. Coffee in all sorts of variations, various kinds of tea, and of course home-made cakes to go with it. But also cheese boards, guacamole or other tapas. Open Thursday to Sunday, for (cava) breakfast too.
• Velosol – cycling café and repair shop, run by a friendly Belgian family. A sunny courtyard full of cycling paraphernalia. Limited opening hours though, usually between 10 and 17.00, with the kitchen closing earlier. The fresh cakes are delicious.
• Cal Xixonero – Unremarkable from the outside, but absolutely worth a visit. The dishes are created around local produce and executed very delicately. You would not really expect that for such a small price.
• The Courtyard (not yet visited ourselves) – next to Xixonero, these days this is a tandoori bar/restaurant.
• Bistro Selene – slightly more luxurious than average, but still not expensive. And a great deal of value for money! A Spanish menu, but most people come for the set menu, both at lunch and at dinner. Popular, so reserving is wise.
• El Nou Mosset – Bar with excellent tapas, on the square by Velosol.
• Don Pintxo – For a small appetite, an excellent bar for pinchos (tapas on a stick).
• Bar Rull – Tapas bar on the Plaza Mayor, always convivial. Rull himself has now retired, but the new owners have kept the name.
• Pizzeria Capriccio – we have never been there ourselves, but there are always people, so they must be doing something right!
• Dockers Hangout – excellent hamburgers for an excellent price. And here too it is often still busy and convivial when the shops around it have already closed for the evening.

Parcent

• El Paraiso – a convivial family restaurant, she is in the kitchen and he does the service. Fine view, good food and personal attention. Just do not say out loud that you like karaoke, because then he will want you to sing…
• Era – Afternoons only. Typically Spanish here as well; whole families arrange to meet up here for a shared paella. But the squid from the barbecue is not to be sniffed at either, and the prices are very friendly. Nicely combined with a (flat) afternoon walk, or of course after the ascent of the Col de Rates. Absolutely recommended; unfortunately you often have to reserve days in advance for the paella, because the number of pans is limited and so is the number of wood fires.
• Bar La Estufa – various regional tapas.

Benissa

Just outside the Jalón valley lies the somewhat larger village of Benissa, where there are plenty of nice restaurants to discover as well. By car that is only a quarter of an hour from Villa Arbolada. You do need to know where it is easiest to park: we often do that on the north side, here or here.

• Heladeria Jijonenca – this home-made ice cream is absolutely worth a detour. In fact, it is also a fine destination for a bike ride.
• Bar El Palleter – on the same little square as the ice cream shop you will find a typical tapas bar. Delicious, convivially busy, old-fashioned, value for money.
• Bar Trinquet – do not be put off by the word bar, this really is a restaurant: with little lamps on the tables and comfortable chairs. But with the old-fashioned conviviality of a small bar. All sorts of dishes (raciones) are listed on a handwritten board, prepared with local and fresh produce. The execution of the dishes is very modern, like a ‘gastro bar’. Our favourite is the calamar stuffed with morcilla.
• Casa Cantó – a serious restaurant, both à la carte and menu del dia. We had the extensive menu as a late lunch; it was very extensive and very good.
• Cuina de dos – Chaplin’s neighbour. This one is still to be discovered …
• Restaurant pizzeria Chaplin – do not be put off by the word pizza, I would sooner call this a ‘gastro bar’. Do try some of the nice original tapas fuera de la carta; we were very pleasantly surprised now and then. There are also the tapas and raciones from the standard menu, both classics and typically local. But take care not to order too much, some raciones are really filling. Convivially busy here too, because it is good. So reserving in advance is wise.

Other

Nou Portet – Between Alcalalí and Orba, only 2.5 km from the villa, lies this nice restaurant. Well-prepared dishes, pleasant staff, both a set menu and à la carte. Also an excellent option with plenty of choice if you are looking for a relaxed spot for a salad in the afternoon.

La venta de Collao – Above Benimaurell lies this lunch restaurant with a fine terrace and delicious Spanish cooking (the leg of lamb was truly perfect, and certainly not the only success). Situated on the ridge, so the terrace can be a bit windy at times. It is sensible to reserve in advance in any case: you do not want to drive up here for nothing, and it is deservedly a popular spot. Ideal to combine with a walk too, for instance along the ridge with views over both the Jalón valley and the Orba valley (see our page on Hiking).

Refugio Vista Bernia – The ideal place to settle down for a late paella lunch after some exertion (cycling up here, for instance, or walking in the area). We actually come back here every single time. Because who would not want to eat here:

Casa Susi (now closed ??) – halfway between Jalón and the Bernia, in Maserof, lies this charming little restaurant where Susi rules the roost. An ideal place to walk to from Villa Arbolada (just under two hours, 250 metres of climbing) and then enjoy, for example, a tajine with lamb and almonds. Please note: better to ring in advance, and bring cash! In principle open Thu-Sun, until 15:30.

Ca’s Pelut, Tarbena – above the fork at Tarbena, then 50 metres further along a small lane. A family restaurant with a fine view and value for money. Excellent paella mixta, but if you ring a day in advance they will make you a paella di pulpo as well. Unfortunately we had not done that, so we will certainly go back for it.

Can Pinet, Tarbena – in the village itself there is another authentic family restaurant, with the whole family present here too, in the open kitchen or serving. Usually just a little less busy than the above: there is simply no terrace with a view here, but the food is just as good and the interior is convivial too.

Gusto Italiana, Orba – both a pizzeria and an ‘ordinary’ Italian restaurant. Something for everyone, then. We ate very well à la carte there in the summer; the second time (in April) the food was fine but a little dull.

Bar-Restaurant La Plaza, Orba – at the hotel on the square you can get an excellent menu del dia, for an unbelievable 12 euros. Simple but effective.

Luleå, Beniarbeig – Vegetarians are not always richly served in Spain, but here you will actually find a completely vegetarian restaurant! For lunch as well as dinner, all sorts of nice options and certainly recommended.

Gastrotaberna El Temple, Benidoleig – In this small restaurant you can get very original tapas.

Javea – on the promenade by the harbour, east of the old town, there are a number of restaurants. You can see for yourself which is the busiest. We ate very well at Restaurante Calima. The paella at Restaurante Cala Bandida was good too, with a view over the whole bay.

Moraira – If you happen to be in Moraira and fancy excellent Asian food, Restaurante Asiatica Sabores II is a very good choice. Between Moraira and Moravit, on the road to Calpe near the Platja de la Galera. Not only friendly people, but very good food too!

See also the paragraph about (the Museo de) turron on the activities page.